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Once in a while, you should stop and smell the roses in your own backyard. With all the traveling I have been doing in the past few years, somehow I had completely overlooked a great little gem almost a stones throw from our corporate offices here in Vero Beach. It is the noteworthy Amalfi Grille, located along the waters of the Indian River on the prestigious, historic, finger peninsula, locally known as Royal Palm Pointe. Okay, it's not quite as charming as actually overlooking the Mediterranean on the Amalfi Coast in Italy but the restaurant does have a tropical charm with the palm trees gently swaying in the breeze, and the food transcends the ambiance.
The moment you walk through the door, the aromas permeating the air set the mood for a wonderful meal. “Grille Restaurant”, yes, but upscale white tablecloths, linen napkins, fine china and stemware, yet, not at all stuffy or pretentious. This is not a large restaurant, so I strongly urge you to make reservations ahead of time. I was lucky. Arriving early, I was able to get the last table of the evening. Not realizing the sophistication of the room, I was dressed in my normal Sportif Shorts, Columbia Shirt and Sperrys. I was well received, but personally I would have felt more in-place with casual trousers and maybe even a blazer at least in the high winter season. After apologizing for my attire to the owner, he told me that the previous weekday evening he too was wearing nice dress shorts. Speaking of the owner, Bob Rose is by far the most personable hands-on operator I have had the pleasure to meet in a long time. He is one of those people you talk to for a few minutes and you feel as if you have been friends for years. Bob is extremely knowledgeable about the restaurant business (35 years), entertaining, and a master at working the room. Bob makes the regulars and the newbies all feel as though he personally invited them to his restaurant. There is no class distinction here. Every guest is royalty in his eyes.
So here is the deal on the food and the Chef. The Chef, Chester (Chet) Perrotti and the owner Robert Rose have been childhood friends, growing up in a very small Italian neighborhood in New Haven, Co nnecticut. Chet, a two-time Zagat-rated chef, has never received formal training, but instead learned the art of fine cuisine from his grandparents. Just as Bob is very hands on in the front of the house, so Chet is in the rear. Within reason, he will make your request any way you want, respecting dietary requirements and various accents on flavor. Why? Because he can. Everything is freshly made on the spot when ordered. Nothing is made in advance. For instance, since they were unable to locate sausage they would be proud to serve, they decided the best solution was to make their own. Chet's background in the produce business gives him the connections and knowledge to acquire only the best from his suppliers. These guys really respect where they came from, making sure, for example, that they import all quality Italian products; that includes all cheeses, Parmesan Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, Asiago and Provolone. They also import the #1 San Marzano Tomatoes, and all Italian meats including Prosciutto di Parma, Sopressata, Pancetta, Salami's and Ham's, direct from their friends in Connecticut at Napoli Foods. Napoli also supplies the Grille with specialty items such as dry salted Sicilian capers, the finest in Extra Virgin olive oils, marinated mushrooms, pickled eggplant, and Arborio Risotto. Bob, an avid fisherman, knows his fresh fish- which, other than the New England-supplied shellfish, they acquire locally. They are so discerning, in fact, that they have educated their vendors on the finer points of quality, ensuring that only the best is utilized.
To start, I had “Pasta Fagioli made to order”. You bet it's made to order. I don't think it gets any better in the old country, and certainly there is none as good within 100 miles of Vero Beach.
For my entree, I had a seafood medley recommend by John our Waite Captain. This was a mountain of food including shrimp, little neck clams, scallops, mussels, and topped with a split Maine lobster tail, all on a bed of linguine, ala fra diavolo. The wine was a Chianti Classico, Reserva, San Felice, II Grigio-06. The entre was more than sufficient. I was going to order the Zuppa di Pesce, but John told us it was even larger and definitely for two. I consider myself somewhat of an expert on Italian Seafood dishes. I lost count after ordering my 100th meal. . Amalfi's dish ranks right up there at the top with the best I have had in the world. I am fortunate as I live in Vero Beach, however if I didn't live here, there is no question, the Amalfi Grille would be a destination restaurant for me. I would drive to Vero and spend the night at the Vero Beach Hotel and Spa (on the beach) and dine at the Amalfi Grille for both lunch and dinner.
Molly, my wife, had “Vitello Amalfi.” This dish is thinly sliced egg battered veal medallions, Marsala, a touch of Marinara, peas, pancetta, eggplant, and mozzarella. Following her second bite she vowed, “we must come here once a week.” I was able to grab a small bite off her plate when she took her eyes off her plate to eyeball another fabulous entree passing our table. There is no question that on my next visit to Amalfi Grille, “Vitello Amalfi” will be what I will be ordering. What makes their food five star in addition to the quality of their ingredients? The seasoning is impeccable yet robust with flavor, and the selected cooking time of the ingredients is done to perfection. Nothing was over-cooked, which often results in the compromise of taste or texture.
The “piece de resistance” was dessert. With hardly room to spare, we did share one piece of the Italian Blueberry and Rhubarb Bread-pudding. This is done in a custard style, sliced in a pie wedge and served with a Belgian white chocolate ganache sauce. There are no words to describe this heavenly finish to a great meal. The dessert menu was the broadest and best we have ever found in Italian-emphasized restaurant. You will find your authentic and traditional options in additi on to a selection of international favorites created by the best pastry and dessert chef in town, Danny Frechette. Although Danny is rather humble, he is a truly skilled artisan who takes great pride and joy in creating his desserts.
For those of you who have been following me, you know I have seldom met an Italian Restaurant I didn't like. I have written about hundreds. Only God knows actually how many I have eaten in over the past 25 years. Of them all, Amalfi stands out because # 1 the owner really gets it. He knows excellent food, the value of absolutely fresh ingredients and that the dining experience is a symphony of events and that all must be performed without flaw every time. Yes, Robert Rose and Chef Chester Perrotti, and Danny Frechette, pastry chef, conduct this symphony at the Amalfi Grille for lunch and dinner every day except Sunday from Mother's Day until October. They are open 7 days a week from the 15th of November up until Mother's Day. Each year, the restaurant closes for 6 weeks starting in September and remains closed until October. Judging from my own personal experience at this restaurant and the many reviews I have read, they have achieved what so many others have tried and failed. The MrFiveStar team has now all sampled the Amalfi Grille and the vote is in. It is unanimous. The Amalfi Grille definitely receives this months Restaurant of the Month Award.
Click here to go directly to Amalfi's web site. Click here to read reviews of the Amalfi Grille. If you landed on this article and don't know where Vero Beach Florida is located, Vero Beach is on the Atlantic side of Florida 65 miles north of Palm Beach, 55 miles south of the Kennedy Space Center and 100 miles south of the Orlando Airport.
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